The guys at Zeronine have produced this cool video on how to easily fit graphics to your bike. Good stuff from those guys.

Go check out their site www.zeroninemx.com

We take you through what’s hot on the newly re-designed MOTO website, lots of new things to checkout in fact its all new.

If you have any questions or feedback please comment below or email our online Content Editor Ray Chuss

is he after a job on radio 2?

Webisode 3 of the Renthal how-to series. This week we look as how to install Renthal brake pads.

EP1 How-To Install Renthal Handlebars
EP2 How-To install Renthal Chain and Sprockets

Here’s our second instalment from Renthals “How To” webisodes – this week How-To Install Renthal Chain and Sprockets

EP1 How-To Install Renthal Handlebars

When fitting new chainwheels it is very important that a new chain is fitted at the same time, and vice versa. Using an old chain with new sprockets, or a new chain with old sprockets will cause rapid wear.

It is important if you are installing the chainwheels yourself to have the factory service manual specific to your model. Renthal chainwheels are made to be a direct replacement for your OEM chainwheels and as such, the installation should be performed according to your models service manual.

When fitting an O-ring chain to a motorcycle that was fitted with a non O-ring chain as original equipment, it is essential to check that there is proper clearance of the engine cases near the countershaft sprocket and any other places of close contact. If the chain does come into contact with any metallic surface, you should remove the chain immediately and install a narrower non O-ring chain. Failure to do so could result in damage to the chain and motorcycle and could ultimately cause the chain to fail.

During use a chain will stretch (i.e. the pins will wear causing extension of the chain). To measure how much a chain has stretched, put the motorcycle in gear and rotate the rear wheel to tension the top strand of the chain. Measure accurately (ideally with a vernier) 16 links, counting both roller and pin links. If the length of the measured 16 links is greater than the maximum acceptable length given in the table below then the chain should no longer be used. These figures assume a 2% maximum allowable extension for non ‘O’-ring chain and a 1% maximum extension for ‘O’-ring chain.

	520 chain Original Chain Pitch Maximum Acceptable Lengths Non ‘O’-ring chain ‘O’-ring chain 5/8″ / 15.875mm 10.2″ / 259.0mm 10.1″ / 256.5mm

Using a chain which has been stretched more than the above maximum allowance causes the chain to ride up the teeth of the sprocket. This causes damage to the tips of the chainwheels teeth, as the force transmitted by the chain is transmitted entirely through the top of the tooth, rather than the whole tooth. This results in severe wearing of the chainwheel.

Misalignment of front and rear sprocket is a major cause of rapid wear. Chains and sprockets should be checked for worn spots which could indicate misalignment. Misalignment is usually due to not adjusting the chain tensioners an equal amount on both sides, worn wheel bearings or worn swinging arm bushings. To check the alignment put the bike on a stand, spin the rear wheel and watch how the chain travels along the sprockets. The chain should run on the centre of the teeth, it should not run to one side or snake from one side to the other.

These diagrams show two examples of misalignment which must be avoided. A long rule should be used to avoid these whist setting up. The front sprocket must be aligned within 1 mm (0.04″) of the straight edge.

CORRECT	INCORRECT	INCORRECT

Lack of lubrication is a common cause of chain and sprocket wear. Check your chain is well lubricated. Neglecting a chain will cause it to rust.

Your chain snapping can cause expensive damage to your bike. If your chain is damaged, worn or overstretched, replace it now. Renthal chain and chainwheels are a perfectly matched, hard wearing, high quality replacement for you existing final drive. Checklist - when fitting new chain and chainwheels ensure that:-

• You do not mix old and new chain and chainwheels.
• The chainwheels are correctly aligned
• The chain and chainwheels are well lubricated

Renthal is proud to release a complete how-to video series on the installation of Renthal products with the help of our good friend and technician Jay Clark.

Each video takes you through the complete installation process of Renthal products for the offroad motocross market and includes many tips and tricks used by factory mechanics over the years to give you the best finished result with the least amount of skinned knuckles and wrench tossing.

ESPN flew out Adam Voorhes to the Kawasaki headquarters in California. He spent two days with their race team dismantling their bike and hanging it for a single exploded photo – cool stuff.

Corners – One of the most important and most difficult parts of any motocross track. So to start this column I am going to talk and advise on rutted corners.
I have to pick one type of corner because I only have 200-300 words max for any column, to talk about all types of corners would take up pages and pages.

Approach

To get all corners correct it starts with the correct approach.
You must get yourself in the right body position. This means getting your head up and viewing the corner as far ahead as possible.
This allows you to select the right gear and the correct braking (both brakes 30% back 70% front)
Also it gives you chance to lean with the direction of the corner (ie if its a left hander to lean the body slightly left) still stood up this makes the corner easier to go around because if you go into a rut with your body upright you are more likely not to stay in the rut.
With the body in the correct position and with the front wheel now in the rut.

The Rut

With the front wheel now in the start of the rut and you lean with the turn and its time to think about where and when to sit.
I suggest to sit most of the time at the apex of the corner because you have more control on the pegs and most ruts more than not are quite rough for the first part due to the fact alot of people brake long into the turn causing braking bumps in the rut.
Sit to the front of the seat to make the forks work correctly and keep the leg high off the ground all the way around, if the foot hits the floor this will make your bike sit upright and you may come out the rut, try to keep smooth throttle control all the way around the turn this gives you good feel for the rear wheel and the bike is not jumpy to get throttle control you need to right gear!
Too low a gear and the bike will be to aggressive.
Too high a gear and the bike will need the use of the clutch because the bike will not have enough power to get around with smooth power.
Always a good idea to cover the clutch as much as possible just incase you need it or just to give a quick flick on exit to bring the engine more to life.

Getting your head up

I really advise to look as far forward in the turn as possible so you can spot not just the entry but the apex and of course the exit (remember that where you look you go)

Next month will be on flat turns and cambers.

Happy riding

Borris

For more information of Justin and his training please visit his site HERE

Renthal is proud to release a complete how-to video series on the installation of Renthal products with the help of our good friend and technician Jay Clark.

Each video takes you through the complete installation process of Renthal products for the offroad motocross market and includes many tips and tricks used by factory mechanics over the years to give you the best finished result with the least amount of skinned knuckles and wrench tossing.

First up 7/8″ Handlebars, Twinwall & Fatbar Handlebars

IMPORTANT WARNINGS

In the event of any crash, it is a wise precaution to make sure that the handlebars have not been damaged. Check also that none of the controls have come loose and that the handlebar has not moved in the triple top clamps.

In the event of a severe crash the handlebar must be replaced. This is because in a crash the handlebar is the most stressed component on the motorcycle.

Do not attempt to straighten the handlebar

Do not modify the handlebars.

Do not centre punch or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

Do not clean the handlebar with any form of metal polish or concentrated cleaning fluids.

The use of these products could damage the anodised finish of the handlebars.
Note that now even Silver 7/8″ handlebars are anodised.

Over to you Olly….

Have you ever come out of a corner and gone to put your foot on the foot peg and found it pointing upright?

Well here at Saint Jean or any track similar that kind of thing happens a lot due to the tiny stones in the soil.

There are a few products on the market which are available to you which can help prevent the stones from sticking underneath your foot peg. But personally I’ve been there and tried that.

The best remedy for this problem is just a good old front inner tube.

All you need to do is cut a piece of tube a couple inches long at a slight angle and just simply slide it over your foot peg and run a pice of locking wire at the bottom to prevent it from being moved while in the rut.

And hey presto, a simple but effective trick for stopping your foot pegs getting stuck up on stoney or muddy tracks.

Stay tuned for more tips and tricks on how to prep your bike like the pro’s.

One of the most common requests in training I get is ‘I want to jump better’. Modern motocross means that you cannot get away from jumps, they come in all shapes and sizes-from Tabletops, doubles, step-ups, step-downs and now even step ons.

Jumps can be the most exciting part of motocross but can also be where some of the worst accidents happen. Everytime I’m at a practice track or racetrack I see riders that unless they learn the correct techniques will seriously injure themselves. More often than not it’s the same issues each time.

The rise of riders like Bubba, Barcia and Roczen recording some amazing videos means that amateur riders are trying to copy these guys as they make it look so easy. I’m always asked on how to whip and scrub, my response is always the same, learn the basics first!

STAGE 1

APPROACH: You must give yourself as much time as possible to make sure you are straight and ready. To do this you must always have your head up and looking as far ahead as possible.

You should be stood up in the attack position, head over the bar pad and your bum near the rear of the seat, with a slight bend to the knees and elbows. As the bike is going up the face of the jump you must make sure your gas is smooth OR you are coming at the jump faster so you don’t need to use gas (scrubbing). You must try the best you can never to BLIPP, because by blipping you can really open yourself to a number of problems

- You can get to much grip and the front end comes high
- The ground could be slick and hard and the rear can spin left and right and the front can drop etc

You should be stood as before in the attack position with smooth gas and nice and relaxed. The suspension will compress and you go with it. Grip the bike tight with your legs, feet, and knees as the bike goes further up the ramp start to move your body further forward so when the bike takes to the air the bike will level out IF you don’t move a little forward the bike has a tendency to go front end high and that is not what you want.

STAGE 2

MID AIR

In the air the bike should be level or with the front end just a little higher than the back, your eyes should be focusing on the landing and your left hand should now be covering the clutch lever ready for landing.

You should still be standing in the attack position ready to attack the landing.

STAGE 3

LANDING

The landing is just as important as the take-off remember you CAN’T crash in the air so you really need to attack the landing as much as you can.

To do this you cannot freeze in mid-air, you need to relax put your body into the landing by pushing into the ground when the bike lands BUT NOT SITTING DOWN.

As you push with the bike with your body as suspension you must apply the gas through the clutch as this gives you forward momentum so you are not dropping from the sky like a stone and head butting the bars or hands coming of the bars etc.

Applying the gas can also help if the bike goes slightly left or right with the gas it can straighten you up and to carry on, again always looking forward and onwards.

Remember these tips are designed as a guide and only cover the basics. Don’t do things that are beyond your ability. The best advice is to focus on one or two jumps that are quite simple and don’t get carried away following the experts! With practice, some training from JMMX you will have jumps nailed in no time.

A lesson with JMMX will help you gain more practical tips and advanced techniques such as making you quicker in the air, seat bounce etc.

For more information of Justin and his training please visit his site HERE

Happy landings!

For the first time ever, Ricky Carmichael shares some of the riding secrets that enabled him to become the Greatest Of All Time! In this first video on Starts, RC shows you how to dial in your technique and get the most out of your starts.

As a part of the Ricky Carmichael University curriculum, look for a new Riding Tip video each month.

Ricky and his team of trainers are heading to the UK in June – All the information to sign up to one of two training days is right HERE.

More on Ricky Carmichael